L'ETUDES NO. |Craig Green 错误的美丽让时空和空间对话-EtudesNumero-八卦帝

L'ETUDES NO. |Craig Green 错误的美丽让时空和空间对话

EtudesNumero 欧美男星 2017-08-11 11:04:07 211

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人物

伦敦出生的设计师克雷格·格林（Craig Green）于2012年在中央圣马丁斯中央大学毕业后不久即建立了同名品牌。此后，他在城市最具创意的男装设计师中脱颖而出，并在全球取得了重要的和商业上的成功。

英国设计师Craig Green出生于伦敦的西北部，2012年毕业于中央圣马丁学院 (Central Saint Martins) ，获得了全额奖学金，并在L‘Oreal男装系列大赛获得创意奖。

一开始学的是女装设计，后来发现男装才能给他带来更多的意义——“我略带笨拙和厚重的审美观更适合男装的设计。”Craig Green曾这样说。2011年，他Walter Van BeirendonckHenrik Vibskov一起工作。为Switzerland设计了8个不同的鞋，在其品牌的店铺。2012年，他与adidas合作的新项目，为David Beckham定制了一个内衣系列。

成名后的Craig Green在某次专访中被问道："你是怎么开始对时尚产生兴趣的，为什么是男装呢？"Craig Green回答说:"事实上这应该算是一种意外；我最初的目标是成为一个肖像画家，但是我在那儿的经历却发生了很多变化，结果时装设计的学位课程成了我最终的选择。开始时我学的是女装设计，但我认为能够设计出精良的女装，是必须成为某一类型的人才能做到，但那一类人里不包括我。男装却可以带来更多的意义——我略带笨拙和厚重的审美观更适合男装的设计。"

“我略带笨拙和厚重的审美观更适合男装的设计。”Craig Green曾这样说。

他表示：在CSM进修是我生命中一段十分兴奋和重要,更是不能取缔的时光。Craig Green的设计作品很多是从童年的幻想和冒险出发的，他也十分注重物料的运用，采用不同材质的面料和技术制作出十分与众不同的设计。其新颖大胆的设计风格总会让人充满期待。

Well a lot of people come out of school with crippling debt nowadays and starting a fashion label isn’t the most sure-fire way towards financial security.

True, I would never have been able to do the MA if I were doing it now. I think I would have had a really different path. I think there will be a big loss of a certain type of creative energy in the next couple years because people are asking themselves, “Do I really want to be in 60 grand worth of debt? And then come out and try and do my own label? With no money?” Just when I was about to start at Central Saint Martins, the fees were still one grand a year. Then I took a gap year and it ended up being three grand a year for me, but now it’s nine grand a year. The change is huge.

从他 2012 年的毕业作品，就可以看得出他的癫狂思想，看似简约裁剪的服饰，却让模特背上一大堆圆柱形、长方形立体装置。这也难怪，毕业生总是想引人注目的。如果把这些古灵精怪的东西拿掉，其实你会发现底下的服装一点也不复杂。也许 Craig Green 热爱将艺术融入时装之余，他死也不要自己的时装秀有一丝沉闷的感觉。

Is it true that when you enrolled at Central Saint Martins – which offers one of the most prestigious fashion programs in the world – you had no interest in fashion?

Yeah I didn’t actually know what Central Saint Martins was… (Laughs) I was quite naïve. I studied art in my A-levels and that’s what I seemed to be best at. It was someone in my A-level classes who was like, “Oh, you have to apply there. That’s like the best place.” So I was like, “Okay, I’ll apply.”

来自Craig Green的第一个系列——AW13的“Fence Face”（有如其他经典的系列），是历年来最具争议的一个系列。

“Sometimes not knowing is better than knowing.”

Craig Green在Lady Gaga手上获得了2016年度最佳英国男装设计师奖。

“Sometimes not knowing is better than knowing.”

I was a very North London boy that didn’t really know much outside of… North London, I guess. I knew I wanted to make stuff. I wanted to do something kind of craft-based or painting or sculpture. I didn’t realize that Central Saint Martins had such a fashion history.

Craig Green 以 “保护” 为主题，准确点来说更应是连结一体的保护色。在 2016 秋冬系列中，设计师选择传统的鹅卵石印花羊毛和柔软的皮革面料为材质，再用交错扣眼与飘带将不同部分连接在一起，另一方面模特用来搭配条纹西服套装的配套遮面面罩，则呈现出该系列主题所带来的强烈安全感。同时选用绿色、橙色和灰色作为这一系列的主调，则使得用先锋的解构主义中又不乏英伦设计中固有的传统与优雅。

Do you think you have a different approach because you don’t have a fashion background?

Sometimes not knowing is better than knowing. You’re working it out as you’re going along. “Is that how you make this?” And then you make a mistake and realize it’s quite good actually. So, yeah, I guess maybe having that background that wasn’t so obsessed with fashion kind of helped. I never really had any fashion heroes or anything. I first started doing womenswear and then my eyes were opened to designers like Walter Van Beirendonck and people that I started to really respect because of the way they were pushing things. So then I started trying menswear and it made more sense to me. I guess it kind of helps you to approach it in a more open way and you’re not so stuck by these rules or what you know.

Green于伦敦男装周发布2017秋冬男装系列。这位风格日渐沉稳的圣马丁设计师无论是在工艺廓形的运用，抑或是面料材质的选择上较往季而言都更加富有新意。人类最古老的恐惧来源就包括海洋。鬼怪的栖身之处，未知与不可预测的象征，驶向海洋意味着远离你的所爱。广阔海洋也带来了对“分隔”的终极想象画面。Craig Green似乎也成功地完全传达了所有宏伟壮观的病态。本季的出发点就是海洋。可以想象，一个居住在荒芜海岸线的群体会穿上他的衣服，海里来、海里去，辛勤工作，与自然界中最基本的元素不断抗争，也不断失去，希望依靠其他人来重建信仰。这全都出现在Craig Green的发布会上：救生船、深海潜水员、设计师每季都离不开的苦修僧侣型人，他们身穿带有的拼缀单品图案丰富但边角磨破，暗示宗教也转化成了临时拼凑应付的崇拜仪式。Frederic Sanchez制作的发布会音轨交织了Martyn Bates民谣式的忧郁，还有神秘学学者Aleister Crowley在巫毒教鼓点中诵读诗歌《在海边》（At Sea）时含混的声音。整场展示给人留下的气势十分惊人，一个向内敛收、对外隔绝的世界。阳刚气质岌岌可危。

“KEEP MAKING THAT WEIRD STUFF”

How do you go on after that, with such enormous expectations all of a sudden?

It was scary. What do you do after that? I didn’t know where to go… But then the next season was just reactionary again. SS15 was very stripped back, it was very eastern, it was very spiritual in feeling, so for FW15 I wanted to do the most classical collection we could. I just wanted to prove that we, as a brand, could make wearable things that people could want in winter. And things that can stand up as design, where it’s not just a floaty piece of fabric and some music.

Craig Green ss 2018

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从黑、蓝、白再到缤纷多彩的色调过渡，像是上一季「海上故事」的延续，渔人们与世隔绝面对未知漂泊了半年之后，终于抵达新大陆。Graig Green 在 2018 春夏系列中再度描绘出一个乌托邦的世界，但这里除了天堂外，还隐藏着些许黑暗与逃离的压迫感。几乎挡住模特视线如帆船般的「装置」、绳索式背带、飘逸流苏与僧侣形象是 Graig Green 最具辨识度的设计语言，缠绕于身体的紧身上衣灵感来自印度一种传统制衣工艺，为整个系列增添了一份异国情调。这位英国时装鬼才眼中的天堂，有棕榈树、阳光与鹦鹉，因此这些元素被转换成剪影结合明快的撞色覆盖于大衣、披风与斗篷之上。与此前系列相比，这一季出现了更多实穿款式，仅以镂空圆圈和几何线条来凸显个人风格的 T-Shirt、背心和宽松高腰丹宁裤。

To create something that is easier for the shops to sell and actually get your products to people.

Yeah, I think the main aim of it was to do pieces that could stand up as pieces in a store against other brands. Like, “That is an amazing coat.” Or “That is an amazing jacket.” “That’s a really nice shirt.” So I guess it was kind of proving to myself and to stores that you don’t need to buy the collection just based on the show.